NEAR Hoan Kiem Lake in the heart of Hanoi, a digital clock counts down the seconds to this atmospheric city’s 1,000th birthday in 2010. There certainly will be a lot to celebrate: the city, Vietnam’s capital, has experienced extraordinary growth over the last two decades, evolving from a grim, famine-ravaged place into a sophisticated metropolis with high-rises, sensational cuisine and world-class art. Those shaking their heads at the disappearance of local culture, though, should think twice. For every glitzy mall, there’s an incense-filled temple nearby, and cultural influences of the past are still part of the modern-day fabric, from revered Confucian monuments to trendy French restaurants. In fact, it’s this zeal for barreling toward the future while always looking back that defines this city.